A Totem Graveyard, And Their Replacements

Mother Nature has begun the slow process of returning the poles to the earth

Nobody knows  exactly when the First Nation tribes of the Northwest  American coastline began to carve these beautiful  poles.   They can depict many things such as clan affiliations and social rank.  They would commemorate a potlatch, be positioned at the entrance to a home, or be a memorial or grave marker among other things.

The front portion of a whale carved in the 1930s

Where was the first one constructed?  When?  We’ll never know these answers but we do know they were seen when the European explorers first visited back in the 1700s.  And it seems certain that it was done somewhere between, say, the current cities of Seattle and Anchorage, and most likely somewhere on the coastline midway between these two cities. If you have perhaps sailed the "Inside Passage" don't suppose you have seen the most authentic, historic portion of it.  There are numerous Haida, Tlingit and other tribal villages here with a much longer history.

I was fortunate enough to spend part of a day at Klawock, Alaska recently,  observing the carving of and learning more about these spectacular totem poles.   Klawock is considered the “mother village” of the Tlingit tribe (commonly pronounced “ Klinkit”). The culture of totem carving is on the rise here as many of the tribe members are striving to re-incorporate into their lives some of the values and traditions of their ancestors.  Their oral history tells them they have been here for well over 5,000 years, maybe double that time,  and some of the aspects of the lives of their ancestors certainly bear emulating!

Mid-August was a special and historic time for the Tlingits of Klawock.  In centuries past, they would migrate to Klawock  from their northern home at Tuxekan during the summer for fishing.  There were a number of totem poles at Tuxekan .  Since a pole typically has a “life” of about 80 years,  during the 1930s the government (via the civilian conservation corps) hired Tingits to recreate the Tuxekan poles and install them at what is now Totem Pole Park in Klawock.

A young carver working on a totem pole for the August pole raising

One of the newer poles at the park in Klawock

These poles have recently been replicated once more,  third generation true copies, and  mid-August the final five were raised during a potlatch.  Now the number is again  21 and the prior poles, which lay on the ground near the carving shed,  have an undecided fate.   As of July, the Tlingits at Klawock haven’t yet come to agreement as to whether to keep,  dispose or let Mother Nature have her way.  But because of the new generation of carvers, they may be going, going, gone, but they won’t be forgotten.

This was one wonderful day of a wilderness cruise in the Inside Passage which skipped the commonly visited ports in favor of uninhabited places and this lovely stop at Klawock, where we learned so much about their long and admirable heritage.

My commercial:  If you are interested in the art of the northwestern natives of the US and Canada I would love to help you plan a trip to view the art, in and out of museums, and perhaps you will discover the perfect piece for your home or yard.  Or, if you want to see the wilderness that very few outsiders visit,  give me a call.  These are places that you will never see on a large ship.

My other commercial:  Some of the finest of the cruise lines are offering special incentives for booking cruises due to sail before the end of the year,  with lower fares and/or onboard spending credits.  Need a last minute vacation?  Call me at 888-857-7379!

The Best Family Thanksgiving Ever Can Be Yours!

For years, I started off my Thanksgiving day watching the Macy’s  Thanksgiving Parade in New York on the TV,  since I am on the west coast.  It was the kick-off to the wonderful holiday season that we  so eagerly anticipate,  but I longed to see the parade in person.

One year, though, I was able to take my kids on a very, very special holiday trip.  We flew into New York on Wednesday and went to a musical that evening.  One of my sisters and her family lived in Brooklyn at the time,  and they had been invited to a parade party at the home of her husband’s employer, which was right along the parade route.  We had the famous balloon characters right at our eye level, and were able to run downstairs to the sidewalk when we wished to watch from ground level.  We then went to her home for a wonderful feast, and the next few days did things like seeing  the real Santa at Macy’s (although there were three or four there at the same time)  and the Christmas Spectacular show with the fabulous Rockettes  at Radio City Music Hall.  It was my Best Thanksgiving Ever.

The parade is long, and watching it from the street can be tiring, especially with children, and what about going to the bathroom?  We were lucky we had the apartment to run up to, and where we could grab a bite to eat also.

I highly, highly recommend this having a spot like this, especially if you have children or grandchildren to take.  My sister doesn’t live there anymore, so you can’t visit her J  but I can offer you the opportunity of seeing the parade with special access to a fantastic rest area steps from the parade route.  You can arrive as early as 8:00 am and partake of a buffet breakfast, and use it throughout the parade to come in for the rest room, a cup of cocoa,  or to just get off your feet for a few moments.

This  package includes three nights at a newly renovated hotel near Times Square in the theatre district, about three blocks from Radio City, access to the rest area, and a couple of other perks.  I think you will be pleasantly surprised at the cost of this great package. Obviously space is limited but there is still some left….and I can help you with other ideas and make suggestions for what to do  in and around New York to make this the Best Thanksgiving Ever!

If you have already seen this parade, I have any number of great quick getaways where you can kick off the holidays.  Contact me at 888-857-7379 or anne@specialtycruise.com.

Buenos Aires' Explosion of Color!

Welcome to the heart of Buenos Aires'  La Boca Neighborhood!

People have called the Argentine capitol of Buenos Aires the “Paris of the Americas,” lauding the wide, tree lined boulevards and the exquisite architecture.   The Recoleta district, with the sophistication of uptown Manhattan, the glorious statues throughout the city, and the wonderful market at St. Telmo make this a fantastic city for those of us who love the variety that a large metropolis can give us. 

That said….I love seeking out the “fun” parts of cities, where the vibe is not necessarily refined and upscale.   Not quite “down and dirty” but more alive, colorful, electric…you name it.

This wall says it all!  To the left, the historic beginnings, where cattle and horses were first introduced to South America, to the right,  showing the purported home of Tango, and the nifty map of La Boca in the middle.

In Buenos Aires, this is La Boca,  (in espanol “The Mouth” ) which some people say is the site of the very first settlement of Buenos Aires in the 1500s. Named for its site on the mouth of the Riacheula, an original point of entrance for vessels arriving from Europe, it still has that edgy port feel.   One that is alive with color, stalls selling beautiful things for very good prices, interesting graffiti that just seems to fit, lots of restaurants, just a worthwhile place to wander for a few hours and see a different side of the city, youthful and old at the same time. 

A few of the permanent residents of Caminito, the heart of La Boca.

And Tango.  Almost a religion here,  the little streetside restaurants each have tango dancers outside, showing their skills at this magical and dramatic dance,  inviting you to sit awhile and watch (and order lunch, as we did.)  La Boca is rumored to be the point of origin for Tango, and it permeates everything here.

Teaching a tourist to tango.

Also here is La Bonbonera, the home stadium for the wildly popular futbol club, the Boca Juniors.  (How on earth did a chocolate confection become the nickname for a stadium full of rabid fans?)   This is a working class neighborhood and can be a bit rough and tumble...stay in the commercial areas, and this is not the best part of town to go clubbing.  But a lunch, a little shopping, and time to just absorb the energized feel of the area makes for a memorable afternoon!   Enjoy the rest of the photos.

As you can see the corrugated metal is a popular building choice....

Shade, fresh air and a cool drink keep these people refreshed on a hot day.

My first "maxikiosco" ever!

Two future Tango masters?  Or futbol players?

Ready for my commercial?  I have a fantastic offer for the month of May from Azamara Club Cruises.  Book an inside cabin for most cruises in 2014 and receive a complimentary upgrade to a fabulous balcony cabin!   Newly refreshed ships and imaginative itineraries with longer stays in port (we had three days and two nights in Buenos Aires) make this a desirable offer.  Call me!  425-454-1250 or 888-857-7379.

Mother Nature and the Man in the Moon

It’s hard to resist the thought of visiting a tropical paradise,  but as a person who used to visit the same place every year,  I found it becoming a bit boring and predictable,  NOT what I wish when I have my precious time away from home.   Sameness is comforting to me in my stomping grounds, but not so much while I am away.  Here's something you probably haven't heard of....

Lush, thick foliage and interestingly rounded boulders create a beautiful entrance into bay.  Look like giant turtles, don't they!

As access to the tiny dots on the map of the world’s tropics becomes easier, you can become a little more selective in choosing your delightful landing spots.  I spent a little time, recently, at a somewhat remote Brazilian beach resort and the frosting on that cake is that it has some historical significance and has preserved it!

Paraty,  (sometimes spelled Parati,) is prounounced Parachee.  Cariocas and their ladies make the two hour or so trip on weekends from Rio,  but I arrived midweek so the town had no crowds whatsoever.  Approaching the town from the water,  you will step onto a dock with vendors selling hats, hats, cold treats and did I say hats?   But unlike many other places, there were no "in your face" salespeople,  a treat in itself.  Walking along the long pier, the crazily painted boats are just begging for someone to please hire them...again, with nobody  approaching you.

Boy boat

Girlie boat

The historic center is set in front of you as you step off the pier.  Briefly, this bay and therefore the site of the city were first seen by the Portuguese a mere decade after Columbus' first trip.  We cannot say Portugal discovered it, however, as there were already several tribes thriving here for hundreds of years before  the Europeans came.  In the 1600s the town became the most important point of export for gold, jewels and sugar in Brazil and in the next hundred years or so the town itself is what thrived.  Then the export business dried up as it moved away (too easy for pirates to plunder from this location) and Paraty was seemingly forgotten.  Thankfully, many of the buildings, iglesias, warehouses, and homes remained as a little time capsule, now still homes, shops, and restaurants to enchant us 21st century travelers.

No motorized vehicles allowed here, an original street  which is cleaned monthly  with the cooperation of  Mother Nature and the Man in the Moon.  The bulkhead along the beach has openings so the highest tides of the full moon can come onto the cobblestone streets and rinse everything away.  

No need to pave your driveway,  just place a few rocks and your lawn and car park are separated.  Wish I could see beyond the gates.

  

Once you enter the historic area, you'll be dazzled by the whitewashed walls, the foliage, and neatness of this quaint little place.  There's a nice mix of usage from private homes to a well-done cultural center to restaurants, places to stay and of course shops, which were surprisingly well-stocked and not at all "beach-town-ish."   Some nice galleries too.

Although the temperatures and  humidity were in the 90s on this peak-of-summer day,  I felt refreshed just looking at the cool blues and greens of these homes.

I turned a corner and was intrigued to see what looked like a little pocket bar, about seven feet wide and maybe twenty feet long.  There was no one there to serve me a very cold beverage and I realized it was part of a hostel.  A kind staff member found me there and brought me into the office where he served me a glass of cool water.  

The tiny little bar  with the big-hearted bartender...

...and the Simpsons on Abbey Road.

Turning toward the main square at the waterfront I caught a glimpse of the church tower and a horse-drawn carriage,  allowing me to imagine a little of what life much have been like centuries ago.

Brazil has done a great job recently of identifying and saving it's treasures of the past and UNESCO has declared this Old Town  a World Heritage Site.

This is no one-note visit.  There is Aventura Park just a mile away, a rainforest with zip lines,  swinging bridges,  numerous hiking trails, and a river running through it.  You can also walk parts of the famous original Gold Trail from the 1600s which have been dug up and made passable.  And lest you think I have forgotten,  there are beaches all over...surfing, swimming, and sunbathing.

But no matter what you do here, this might be your most lasting image:

Tchau,  Paraty.    (pronounce it "ciao.")

Do you have a favorite, perhaps secret, tropical hideaway with a lot of personality?  I'd love to hear about it.  Just go below to Comments and type in your message and you can share with my millions of readers.  (Insert smiley face here.)

Commercial message!   How I love them!   I've got to make a living!!!  People are often surprised at how much they fall in love with South America, whether they travel by cruise ship and pop down to Antarctica,  or just tour several of these magnificent countries.  You can almost hear whispers of the ancients at Macchu Piccu and you can definitely hear the beat of Tango in Argentina.   This is a continent of superlatives and the time to visit just might be now.    Call me for ideas at 888-857-7379.