Journey to the Center of the Earth

(spoken in a very deep, resonating voice)

I think you all know I am using literary license here, as we would all sizzle up and fly away as ashes in a cloud of smoke if we really went to the center of the earth.   But  if you hie yourself over to the Christian Science Center the next time you are in Boston you can figuratively make that trip in their exquisite Mapparium.

The Christian Science Center is  like the Vatican for the Catholics as the world headquarters for the Church of Christ, Scientist.  The Center itself makes a nice visit.  The grounds include the beautiful Mother Church, adjoining the original church  (the first church was rather small and the burgeoning religion outgrew it within a dozen years), the general offices, the Christian Science Publishing Society headquarters where the Christian Science Monitor has its editorial offices, the Mary Baker Eddy Library, and other ancillary buildings.  The Christian Science Plaza is centered by a beautiful reflection pool that practically begs you to sit for a few moments to unwind and, well, reflect.

Behind the reflecting pool is the original church, and behind that the Mother Church.

Disclaimer:   I am not a Christian Scientist.  But I grew up amongst them, and find them to be kind, thoughtful, pleasant, happy, loving, caring and giving people in general.   This place mirrors these qualities.

I do understand that not everyone finds themselves to be atwitter at the prospect of entering into a giant globe.  A  three story globe.    If maps and globes don’t interest you, just skip to the end of the blog, where you will see my tremendous offer.  But if you’ve already walked the wonderful Freedom Trail, ridden the swan boats, prowled the waterfront, seen Old Ironsides and are looking for something different to see in Boston, this might be your piece of Boston Crème Pie.

The  Mapparium  is located in the Mary Baker Eddy Library.   Mrs. Eddy was the discoverer and founder of Christian Science and was a well known and honored woman in her time (the late 1800s.)   The library itself is almost more of a place to find and discover and share ideas, although there are certainly books and research tools here. The Hall of Ideas, for example, celebrates ideas throughout the years that have stimulated us and created change.  The neoclassical hall itself is a thing of beauty.   One of the few copies still existing of the 1611 King James Bible has been on display at the library  this year, and thought provoking and interesting exhibits rotate through.

One of the fascinating light fixtures within the library.

You enter the Mapparium on a bridge that runs through the middle, I could say from west to east,  as if you are standing on the equator.  The first thing you note is the vivid colors of this globe,  which opened in 1935.  The next thing are the numerous country names that you may remember but your children will not be familiar with.   This globe was created with the capability of being changed and updated, but after a few movements to do so over the years, it was decided in the 1960s to just keep it as a work of art, a snapshot of the world as it was nearly 80 years ago.  You might ponder how much more different it will seem after another 80 years!  Both recorded and live narratives are part of the program.  (We are not allowed to photograph the Mapparium so please do follow the above link!)

Besides the features of the globe, the acoustics are fun.  You can speak, and the shape and size of the sphere allow you to hear your voice just as it sounds to others.  It brings a new meaning to “talking to yourself!.”   And, someone on the other side of the world can whisper to you and it sounds like they are standing next to you. 

The Christian Science Center is in Back Bay, at 200 Massachusetts Avenue, close to Fenway Park, and steps from three convenient subway stops.    There is no admission fee for the libarary, but a small fee to enter the globe.   Worth it, in my opinion.   

Another view of the Mother Church, early 20th century, with the original late 19th century church on the right.

(Thank you to Lindsey Johnson for the loan of her camera after I left mine at the Minneapolis Airport!!!)


Time for the commercial!   I really just want to wish you all a happy rest-of-the-holiday season.  I am seeing some interesting and unusual offers for 2012, such as journeys tied to the 100th anniversary of the sinking of the Titanic, and the first expedition to the South Pole.   Travel possibilities are becoming more and more fascinating as time goes on and infrastructure allows,  and as a Virtuoso member I am on the front porch with most of these travel companies allowing us to do these things.   If you have been visiting the same place for years and years and want to try something new and different, give me a call!    888-857-7379, general business hours, Pacific Coast time.

My Secret Place: A Love Story

I have finally resigned myself to the fact that I will NOT be able to visit every single place in the world in my lifetime.    I am not a billionaire (or even a millionaire.)  I don’t have my dream job working for a tour company or cruise line scouting out new destinations.   (I’m open to offers for that one!)   Period, zip, end of story.

That is why,  although it pains me to say so, there are  many places I’d like to revisit that I put off in order to see  new things.    I’m the hamster running on the wheel, always wanting to go and mostly getting nowhere except to my desk, living vicariously through my clients. 


But  I have a secret place that I have returned to, one where few travelers visit and even fewer  stop for a night or five or six.  I know I’ll go back again, maybe even soon.   This place TRULY makes you relax, slow down, and live at a snail’s pace.   When I win the lottery or my ship comes in, whichever happens first, I would love to purchase a little casita so I could escape  in the winter, away from Seattle’s rainy season.  

Mineral de Pozos,  truly "away from it all."

How I got there first was serendipitous.   Nest had emptied, dear dog had died, between relationships, burned out on my job.  One day looking at a tour brochure, a great part of my job,  I saw a day trip from a central Mexican city, was intrigued, googled it, and had a yearning to see this tranquil, somewhat rustic town that looked like it was out of a movie set.  Or more accurately, out of the past.  Took vacation time, bought airline tickets, rented a car, booked a room at Casa Mexicana, and off I went, all within a few days.

Circa 1572 Jesuit smelters, Sta. Brigita, near Pozos

Mineral de Pozos  (just Pozos to the locals) was once a glorious and sophisticated city and now is barely a hamlet.  Less than 100 years after Columbus sailed,  Jesuits had come to the area to convert the  natives, noticed their beautiful silver jewelry, and long story short built triplet smelters which still stand.  The mining community thrived off and on and by the late 1800s the population was near 70,000.  Hitting the water table in the early 20^th century, the town shrank  and at one point dwindled to about 250.

Above town are nearly century old ruins of mines and grand haciendas.  You can hike, bike, or ride horseback up here  (or travel by car of course.)  Someone will guide you for a tip!

In the second half of the 1900s several artists moved here and it has since become kind of a mini-artists’ colony;  the Mexican government also made it a national historic site which protected it from complete modernization and development.    The reconstruction of the  crumbling ruins has been thoughtful and respectful of colonial Mexican design.  Some of the town has not been restored, giving it the antique feel.

Compare Pozos to the many nearby Colonial towns and you’ll realize it’s the perfect jumping off place for touring.  About 45 minutes south is Queretero,  a city of a million and most importantly:  Costco.   (Do you see my tongue in my cheek?  But if you need something and you just can’t find it elsewhere, you’ll know where to go.)  The same timing to the west would be San Miguel de Allende,   rife with American retirees and streets choked with traffic, but still remaining quaint and fun to visit.   I went to a bridge club there to get my weekly fix.    Dolores Hidalgo, north, is the cradle of the Mexican Revolution and another fun day trip.    And only five miles away is San Luis de la Paz,  a city of about 30,000—you may feel you are in the middle of nowhere, but you aren't.   

Traffic jam in the mountains.

However my favorite day trips have been the ones where I saw intriguing names on the map, in the mountains, which I decided to seek out. Into the car, and off you go…point your car in the right direction,  look for signs and if you don’t see any, keep driving. If you get lost, you will shortly get found. I wanted to see Dr Mora, Victoria, Tierra Blanca and more as they are today’s typical Small Town Mexico. (Well, I really wanted to see Victoria because that is one of my sis’ names.)

Gorgeous pastoral hills and valleys

Nothing that I saw disappointed me:   villages and small towns, all surrounding their churches and pleasant plazas,  people busy working, smiling and waving as I went by.    Miles and miles between them, sharing the road with cattle and donkeys, sometimes seeing -0- signs of civilization except for maybe a barbed wire fence or a telephone wire overhead.   Road construction going on, children going to school, people in the little shops and stores, just like Small Town America up north. 

Security note:  if you are afraid of Mexico, and I know some people are, this is more like the American Midwest.   Industry and agriculture keep the people busy and prospering.  They are extremely family oriented and very happy.   This is far, far away from any drug violence.  (Can you say that about your nearest major city in the US?)

 























 My favorite of the small towns?   Tierra Blanca, a lovely, tidy little place.  The church is uphill and across the street from the village, looking down a stairway that leads through the bustling streets to the plaza.  See the wall with writing on it in the photo above left?   Graffiti?  Advertisements, or propaganda?   Nope,  see below!

Tierra Blanca, the happiest moments in the family are when playing with the children.

A short walk outside of town, high desert meets thriving agriculture

I didn't leave Pozos every day.  I was there to recharge.  I took long walks daily. You can visit the abandoned mines and crumbling haciendas of  a century ago, poke around the town, visit the little shops, try different restaurants, meet local artists but mostly…."chillax" as the kids say.

You can also check out the local stud muffins.

I was lucky enough, on my first visit, to arrive during the annual Fiesta de la Toltequidad.  How excited was I to see a contingent of Huichol Indians there selling their exquisite beadwork:  masks, small animals and bowls of various sizes.   At prices about 75% lower than you would pay in the expensive shops and galleries of the seaside resort towns.    If you are an art collector, a steal, and you are again meeting some of the artists.  This culture is one of the few remaining in Mexico that has not completely embraced modernization and sadly,  is expected to slowly yet inevitably bend to the forces of the 21st Century some day. Hopefully not soon.  A fascinating culture, I encourage you to follow the link.

My photo can show you the vivid colors but do not do the exquisite beadwork justice.  Meeting the artisans was a thrill for me as I had purchased their work in the past.

This festival lasts for several days,  happens in July, and has, besides booths selling beautiful indigenous items,  music, dancing and various shows, all springing from the past.


Now I must tell you about the hotels.  I have chosen Casa Mexicana for my visits.  I heart it. Rebuilt from ruins of a hacienda, each of the five suites is completely different from the other.  I stay in El Arbol, so named because a tree grows through it.  One even has a friendly ghost.  The owner, Teresa Martinez,  was an art dealer in Manhattan for years so has sophisticated taste, and the rooms are adorned with Picasso etchings.  Her hostelry also includes a restaurant, an art gallery, and a gift shop with a collection of beautifully eclectic items from all over the world. 

The doorway to El Arbol, with an angel just to the right of the steps.

There is  another newly rebuilt hotel, Posada de las Minas, owned by Texans Dave and Julie Winslow.  They did a stunning job--Julie did the designing and planning, and have created a modern getaway with colonial touches.  A great courtyard restaurant and the "happ'nin"
bar are exquisite, too.    Both places will welcome you warmly and give you plenty of attention, especially with the "what to do and where to go" questions, and will introduce you to the art scene around town. 

So there you have it:  a perfect place to run away to.  (Oops, did I just end a sentence with a preposition?  Let me try again.)  So there you have it.  If you need to run away, this might be your perfect landing spot.

Now for my commercial!  I would be happy to help you plan a sojourn that includes Pozos.  On the other hand,  I receive emails daily from hotels, cruise lines, and other wonderful vendors all over the world with news and information on the bargains they are offering.   Today, for example, I have in my inbox an invitation to save $500 on a rare tour to witness a butterfly migration,  some new walking itineraries from Butterfield & Robinson, who really do it better than anyone, and a reminder of a sale through the 15th on Windstar's beautiful sailing vessels.   Call me at 888-857-7379 or email, anne@specialtycruise.com 

A Banquet of Oregon Waterfalls

Before we get to the good stuff, I am going to test your pronunciation. How do you say Oregon?   Do you call it Or-eeee-gone?   If so, you must not be from the West.   You must be from the East.  Or somewhere else.  Because if you are from there, you will call it by it's proper name,  Or-a-gun.   Like, if I want to protect myself, should I carry a knife,  OR A GUN?  Slight emphasis on the Or.

Now that I have educated some of you, I can get on with my favorite part of that state, which is known for it's gorgeous coastline.  But here is a most excellent day trip easily do-able from Portland, a lovely city at the confluence of the Columbia and Willamette rivers.  (And by the way, it's not Willam-ETTE, it's Will-AM-ette.)  I like this day trip even more than going to the Coast.  

Check to make sure it is a sunny day which would typically be a pretty good possibility between May and September, and often during the other months too, but you might not want to count on November through February.   Head east on I-84, otherwise known as the Banfield Freeway, and exit at Troutdale.

Troutdale is a cluster of darling little shops and restaurants, and the ladies in your party will probably want to stop for "just a little while."  Ha!  We've heard that before!  (And I've said it before too.)  Drive through the town, which is proclaimed by a sign that spans the road  to be the Gateway to the Columbia Gorge.  You are still parallel to the Columbia,  and you will cross the Sandy River. You are now on the historic and beautiful Columbia River Highway, completed in 1916.

Even the beginning of the highway, out of view of the river,  is gorgeous as it winds uphill through the mini- villages of Springdale and Corbett.   Shortly after, you will come to the Vista House at Crown Point which gives you splendid views east and west along the river and is itself  a restored gem of an early 20th century building.  During my trip Memorial Day weekend, I spent only about 10 minutes because the weather was as below:  (and I have been there any number of times in the past).

Although I said go in May,  I did not mean May of 2011.  You see the hills of southern Washington across the way and on a clear day during this trip you may at times see some of the snowclad peaks of the area.

Next, on to the dazzling array of waterfalls just a short drive away.  What enchants us so much as a high ribbon of water falling off a cliff in the woods?  For your banquet's  appetizer,  the first fall you will come to is Latourell.  Park in the lot and take the short walk uphill just a few hundred feet for your first and perhaps best view:

You can stop here and sit for awhile or continue along the trail to get some splendid side views of the falls.  None of these waterfalls require an actual hike, which I will define as "a long way and you would need a water bottle and that sort of thing".  But some of the paths have some relatively steep sections so be ready to take your time.

Pop back into the car and your next course in the banquet is one of my favorites.  Bridal Veil Falls.  There is a nice park here, with clean restrooms, and a short and flat paved loop that gives you superlative views of the Columbia River below.  The other trail, to the falls, has it's ups and downs (pun intended) but you will see some truly spectacular scenery.

Here you are on a bridge approaching from the bottom.  This is where the falls become a stream tumbling happily, I like to think, toward the Columbia River,  after its freefall from the ridge above.  You will now take an uphill path to a viewing platform where you can get great photos of the two-tiered waterfall.

 

As you came into the parking lot, you will have noticed an enticing building across the street.  This is the Bridal Veil Lodge B&B and although I have never visited it,  this is the only place within what I call the "waterfall zone" along this historic highway.   If you are all about hiking, rather than short walks,  this would be a good place from which to start.  Drive from Portland the evening before, stop at Tad's Chicken 'n Dumplins along the Sandy River just outside of Troutdale for dinner, then spend the night here.  After you climb out of your B in the morning you can have a hearty B (get it?) before you set off on a day of hikes.

Just east of Bridal Veil Falls, you will arrive at Wahkeena Falls, another one that can be seen from the base of the parking lot but is worth the walk up.  Like Multnomah Falls, the most famous,  this one has a stone 1920s footbridge in front of the base of the falls so you can be close enough to enjoy the spray on a hot day.

Speaking of Multnomah Falls,  you will most likely stop here next, the heart of your banquet.  This is one of the most iconic images of Oregon that you will find.   The ample parking, easy paths, and lovely day lodge with both casual and sit-down dining make it a popular  afternoon trip for Portlanders, or a nice stop if you are heading to eastern Oregon on I-84. You'll probably see license plates from several states in the parking lot.

One thing that they didn't get right:  the sign in front of the falls proudly claims that this is the second highest year-round fall in the US.  Unfortunately, there are about 100 falls that will disagree.  There are 30 alone across the river in Washington (in the North Cascades) and a good portion of the highest falls are in Hawaii,  also home to about 30 of the top 100.  Some are not sure it is even the highest in Oregon.  California's Yosemite Falls, typically touted as the highest, is only about #15.    And, there are many very, very remote falls in such mountainous areas as Alaska that haven't ever been measured.

Still, this is accessible, quite lovely, and photogenic.  Learn about the sad but beautiful native legend of the beautiful maiden (of course!) who caused the falls, and other stories explaining creation.

The next falls I love are Oneonta Falls, which is a real challenge to reach, and only accessible for part of the year.  This is the falls you will want to visit when it is oh, say, 100 degrees out.  You will walk in along a stream that belies what comes next.  Your first challenge is a logjam which you must navigate very carefully. You approach a very narrow gorge and you must either wade through (or sometimes the water is so deep you will swim), or climb on the steep rocks, but not very high.  Then the gorge turns a slight corner and you come into one of the most beautiful visions you will EVER see, honestly.  The falls, the gorge, the greenery, the coolness on a hot day.  It's almost like Mother Nature made it just hard enough to get into that she decided to reward you with a breathtaking scene for your efforts.  However, this day in late May the stream was raging and over it's typical bank, so I could only gaze longingly at the logjam.  I will just have to link you to a photo or two:  a great Gorge shot, (click on the little camera where it says Oneonta Gorge and then click again to enlarge--there are two pix here, one of the gorge and one of the falls) and an exceptional view of the falls.  If you haven't guessed yet, this is the dessert of your banquet.

Afterward, continue east along the historic road, past Horsetail Falls (literally at the road's edge) and you can then either pick up I-84 west back to Portland, or continue on to Bonneville Dam for a tour.  You can also see the huge and ugly sturgeon in their pond.   (Tens of thousands of them live in the river, and earlier this year it was discovered that something over 60,000 of them had clustered in a huge ball at the base of the dam.  The army thought they were debris that had detached from the dam.)  We then went on to Cascade Locks and the Bridge of the Gods (of course there is a legend based in truth here), crossed to Washington, and continued on home.  Or, you can swing back onto I-84 if you are staying in Portland.

I truly cannot think of a better way to spend a hot day, and I've been in hot weather all over the world, including the Greek Isles,  the South Pacific,  and beach resorts galore.  (Winter can be gorgeous too, but you'll be sticking closer to the car and the paths and trails may not be as safe.)

The New 21st Century Travel Vocabulary

With the new century has come a surge in new types of travel as the Baby Boomers find themselves ready and willing to expand their travel expectations.   And I like the some of the names almost as much as the travel trends!

(By the way, a vocabulary lesson doesn't exactly lend itself to travel photos,  so I am just going to insert some pix that I just love for whatever reason.)

Ranger, my Handsome Stranger.

Many of us grew up camping but are finding it less attractive to spend hours packing gear into the car, unpacking it at the camp grounds, and generally working just as hard as if we would have stayed at home, cooking, cleaning up, and more.  Yet we still long for fresh air, starry skies, day hikes, and being out in the wild.   So let me present....glamping!  Yes, this is camping with a glamorous twist.  Imagine a large tent...with a soft bed...rugs (no you are not on the dirt)...an indoor/outdoor shower...a heater...and a dresser so no more ruffling through your  backpack or tote bag of clothing when you need a change of clothes!


Plus,  you will typically find way more activities available than if you were in a state or national park somewhere.  You can still go fishing, take walks, wade along the shores of rivers or lakes, but how about horseback riding, ziplining, mountain biking, cooking classes (WHAT?) and maybe kayaking.  Think of a combination of an old fashioned dude ranch and a posh resort by the seaside.  Or something like that.   Oh, and I forgot to mention food...once your eyes drop to the plates, you would think you were in a fine dining room somewhere in a city full of foodies.  So if glamping sounds like a good mix of refined and wild to you,  I have some ideas.

Midsummer midnight- Baltic

Here's a great new word as it covers so much territory about all that is good with travel.  Ready?
Experential.   No more looking at things, watching things...it's time to do things.  For example, I made a trip in the Sea of Cortez and hiked on uninhabited islands, snorkeled with sea lions (keeping a very respectful distance although they seem to love people) and stared down at a gigantic eyeball about a foot below the waterline as I sat in a little panga in Bahia Magdalena, where gray whales give birth.  (This was on the Pacific side of Baja California.) The whale glided underneath us, crosswise, just below the surface.  We looked at each other, and time stopped for a moment.

Experential doesn't have to be in the realm of soft adventure, though, as you could travel with others who wish to pepper their trip with such things as cooking classes,  making cheese,  olive-oil tastings, that sort of thing.  Typically you will be hands on and you might work at an archaeological dig.    Experential travel kind of has one edge blurred with another new term,  Voluntourism.   Which speaks for itself.   Help maintain a national park somewhere, within or out of the US.   Build homes.   Help people to learn how to care for themselves.  Kids are doing this now, as spring break and/or summer projects are scheduled, so our younger generation sees the world with way different eyes than did their parents, who were lucky to travel outside of the US at all during their youth.

From the side of a highway, Qumran, where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found.

The case for going green has been tried and tested,  and I am sure you have heard of various hotels, protected areas, and that sort of thing that are champions of "sustainable tourism."    Here you'll find structures designed for minimum energy usage, the most pristine and renewable building materials, hotels and restaurants that grow much of their own food....the sort of thing that will help mother nature remain clean so that our grandchildren can appreciate our world's beauty as much as we can.

Have you experienced any of these trends?   Drop down to the comment section and talk about this so others can learn more.   And if you would like to, contact me and we can talk. 

My commercial?   How about a  FREE four night Peru stay, including Machu Picchu, if your purchase a Galapagos trip  during this 100th anniversary year of Hiram Bingham's re-discovery of this spectacular site.  I've been there and can attest to the exquisite beauty and breathtaking ruins you will see.  Call me for specifics,  10 dates are available and space is limited.  I'm at 888-857-7379 or 425-454-1250.

Heavenly Hotels: The OOOH and AAAH Test

I loooove traveling and am one of those people who loves planning the trip almost as much as making it.   Hmmmm, that must be why I have this career!

Choosing hotels is one of the most dicey things as you want to get it just right. Many of us are members of "loyalty clubs" so always book with one chain. Often these are cookie cutter properties devoid of personality, but certainly are adequate.
 
Sometimes, though, a trip calls for something different.   Maybe it's a celebration.  Maybe you want to, just once, pamper yourself.  Or maybe you will begin or end the trip with something special, just because, and save $$$ the rest of the time.

I  like to look for the "aaaahhhhh" factor.  The feeling you get when the room welcomes you at entry.  And if I can also get the "ooooooh" factor it's a double whammy.   This can be harder to find, depending upon what gives you that feeling.  For me it could be the whimsical, the non-traditional, the imaginative, the history, the great locale....things that set it apart.

Although some of them are expensive, not all are.  I don't need an 800 thread count on my Egyptian cotton sheets and bathroom amenities with a label that says "ca-ching."

But I do love a wow factor, sometimes paying for it, sometimes not.

Take, for example, Washington D.C.   Everything from drop dead luxurious to standard digs are there.   I chose, on my last trip, the Willard.    For the Abraham Lincoln connection, and the location.  Our most important president ever, as judged by many, hid in plain sight here for the time between his arrival in Washington and his inaugural. It served as his "pre-White House"  I'm sure I traced some of his footsteps (building replaced in 1904, but is in the same place).   In the next block over is the Treasury building and in the block beyond that, which covers acres, is the White House.  

 The view from our room was toward the Washington Monument and they very nicely ordered lightning for us one evening which lit up the area beautifully.   This was a higher than average priced hotel, but the atmosphere, location and history were the intangibles that I couldn't have found elsewhere.  Both oooh and aaaahh factors.

I chose this next hotel for the view and location and I bet you'll never guess where it is (tongue in cheek) by the view from my balcony!  The Park Hyatt Sydney is almost under the Harbor Bridge  at the foot of The Rocks,  the "old town" of Sydney.  It was an easy and just-what-the-doctor ordered walk around the shoreline of the bay to the Opera House and along the way you can enter historic buildings, see ruins of the some of the original structures of Sydney, pass by parks, restaurants, and shops.  The hotel itself has huge and comfy rooms,  a restaurant with floor to ceiling bay and Opera House views, and the best breakfasts I have ever had, high praise coming from someone who doesn't care much for her morning meal.  (I think it was the mini pots de creme studded with raspberries that did it.  What a way to get your fruit!)

 We were there to board a cruise ship and imagine our surprise the day before embarkation when we went out on the balcony to get our morning breaths of sea air...and there was our ship!

This was, again, an expensive hotel.  Something more in the center of town would have cost less, but the feeling of being enveloped by the most interesting neighborhood of Sydney, and the convenience of being able to walk to so much  made it well worth it.  The thrill of going out on the balcony to see the Opera House, only obstructed by passing watercraft,  is my best and most lasting Sydney memory.   Both oooh and aaaah.

I found this  little boutique hotel in Stockholm completely by accident.  Don't ask how.  Not too expensive, not a deluxe hotel, but with a superb location on Gamla Stan(the oldest, original part of the city).  As is sometimes the case in older sections of towns, a couple of buildings were cobbled together and it was like a rabbit warren of rooms.   Small and outdated, with older but functional bathrooms.  About a two minute walk from a subway station and just a block off the busier streets of this area, we found the hotel itself to be most satisfactory.  Then the next morning I went into the breakfast room in the basement and saw the thing that I look for in my travels:   ruins!

This is the only remaining fragment of the city's original medieval defenses ( part of the base of a tower) built during the 1300s...and by my calculations I was sleeping a couple of floors above it!  To the right, the accompanying artwork depicts Stockholm at that time, and if you had a magnifying glass you could see this actual tower.  But how amazing that they were able to identify this chunk of brick and mortar, and obtain a painting that shows it as it originally was.

The owners have several small hotels and they have filled them with Lord Nelson memorabilia.  We stayed at The Victory (named for his ship) and it's decor was a marine history buff's dream:   model ships,  figureheads,  pictures, like a mini-museum.  Not much aaahhhh factor but plenty of oooooh!

Next up, London, known for it's abundance of world-class hotels. I chose the Egerton House just because I had a feeling about it....it was named, one year, the "Most Excellent Hotel in London"  and it's regular rooms will not cost $500 per night or more.   I was not disappointed.  The "aaaaahhhhh" factor hit me at the door.  Each room in this house is like a little Faberge egg of perfection, no two alike,  all drool-worthy.  Although the house was built in the 1840s the bathrooms  are fine and you  hate to drop even a jacket onto the bed to disturb the impeccable look of the room.  Italian ex-pat Antonio,  known in certain circles as "King of the Martinis" does make the most heavenly concoctions  in the bar and the whole staff is eager to help.  Views vary,  mine was into the  garden behind the hotel:

What a great location this is, especially if you are a walker.   It's in Knightsbridge, smack dab between Harrod's and the Victoria and Albert, so you can go from educating yourself to shopping easily.   We walked to Buckingham our first evening and then on to the Whitehall Parade grounds for the horse parade in honor of the Queen's birthday.  An invigorating stroll and a great way to see several parts of the city.

There are others on my list that I would be willing to pay a little more for,  such as the hotel near Cape Town that grows virtually all of it's own produce and has access to the home that Nelson Mandela first stayed in after leaving prison, left relatively intact.  They are willing to show it to their hotel guests even though it is not open to the public.

And the one in Morocco, very new, where you can have lunch brought to you while you are dangling your bare feet into a soothingly cool stream.  What an example of a simple pleasure!

My last hotel stay was in a small town in Southern Idaho in a perfectly decent place where the bathroom was clean, the bed was OK, the included breakfast was...edible, and even though it's only been about six months,  I barely remember it.  It won't be the last place I stay at like that, I'm sure, but I am looking forward to the next remarkable hotel that will bring me moments to treasure forever.

I'd love to hear about any special hotels you've loved and why, especially their
"wow" traits.   Please leave a comment below for everyone else to read.

My commercial:  If you want to experience a world-beater hotel I have a large stable of these with either discounts or added amenities!  Or,  I can help you find that just-right hostelry that will provide you with, hopefully, your own aaaah and oooh moments.

888-857-7379.

Collecting Olympic Sites

Who amongst us doesn't, or has never, had a collection?   The gamut runs from childhood whimsies to serious adult obsessions, but most of us thoroughly enjoy collecting things that are meaningful in one way or another.

I, for example, collect antique maps from places that I have visited.  They make an interesting addition to my home, one that people love to peruse.  They are reminders of my travels and the hunt for the maps. 

My Frequent Traveling Companion, however, doesn't collect things, he collects places.  He has always loved the Olympics and has attended several. When we began traveling together I knew that he wanted to see all possible Olympic venues. Since I drag my traveling companions everywhere I want, it's only fair that I should go along with him.  And, I have discovered some fascinating and historic places!

The first we ever visited together was  Sydney.  It was modern,  a lovely complex that has been converted into a multiple-sports and park use space.  Simple to get to,  there are frequent commuter trains from the city taking about a half hour.   Since it was  over 100 degrees, I stayed close to the fountains spraying cool water.  On a more comfortable day I would have loved walking or biking on the dedicated paths and boardwalks through natural areas.  For the more adventurous there are other diverse opportunities including trying to master the flying trapeze!  It's a classic example of what cities can do with their venues if they plan right beforehand. 

The next one we visited was the oldest of them all, at Olympia.  The first competition was believed by historians to have been held nearly 3,000 years ago.  For hundreds of years it was just one race, a 210 yard dash. The first recorded winner is a Greek cook who ran naked (maybe they all did!) in 776 BC. Thereafter two additional races of longer lengths were added and it grew from there. Fast forward a millenium. and the Romans ruling Greece cancelled the competition for lack of interest and perhaps some paganistic overtones.

With the thousand year  tradition of the competition, the complex at Olympia had grown quite large with temples, sanctuaries, dormitories, training areas, monuments (Alexander the Great built one for his father), and of course the Olympic flame.  It's a beautiful place to see.

If visiting in the summer, bring an umbrella as only part of the site is shady.  It can be extremely hot.  The museum is excellent, but the highlight for many is seeing the actual starting and ending points of the race. People love to line up against the marble slab where thousands of years ago Olympians stood, poised to run.

If you are a Greek Mythology geek, you'll love the fact that next to the site is Mt. Kronos, where Zeus battled his father for supremacy and won.   Perhaps they took a break to watch one of the early races!

Fortunately, the event only died out in fact, not in lore and legend, and a French Baron spurred the movement to bring them back, with Athens being the logical choice for the first games in 1896.  That stadium, white marble, still stands near the center of the city on a busy thoroughfare.  Unfortunately I was there before the days of digital cameras so no photo but it is a beautiful stadium in its simplicity. 




Another very early stadium that makes an interesting stop is in Stockholm.  Built for the 1912 Olympics,  it's still in use today.  When we visited, there were junior runners from  as far away as Africa competing.  The stadium is a block or so from  a stop on Stockholm's nifty subway system (see my earlier post).  Well worth a quick visit for the sculptures at the entrance and seeing the beautiful architectural details of the day.

If you are visiting the Scandinavian countrys, go check out Helsinki's stadium which has an interesting history.   Built for the 1940 Olympics, it had to wait another dozen years to host them because WWII broke out.  In 1952 more world records were broken there than at any other Olympics.   I was planning to visit it and snap some fab photos but couldn't, due to a bicycling accident earlier that day.  Please don't ask me about this as although several very large dark areas appeared on various parts of my body, my pride was hurt more than my physique.  They made me stop the tour too which I was loving, but I digress.

I found seeing the Berlin complex fascinating and emotional.  It is  way out of town but of course their transportation system is efficient and fast like everything else the Germans do!  There is still a lot left here but few tourists were there when we visited.  Seeing where Jesse Owens won gold, and where Hitler refused to present the medal to him, made me proud of and angry for him at the same time. 

I found the contrast between Stockholm and Berlin to be most interesting, because they were built only two dozen years apart.  One of brick, one of stone.  Obviously Hitler meant it to be a symbol of the substantial power of Germany.  The complex is impressive and holds the pool and the  Reichssportsfeld  outside of the stadium where other events were  held.  The spaciousness of the site allows you to feel echos of the throngs that attended these games.

The pride in their vision of perfection of their youth shows both in the statuary and in the Bell Tower and Langemarckhalle at the bleacher side of the field (photo below).  The thousands of young volunteers who were ordered to attack near Langemarck in Belgium during  WWI, and who subsequently died in droves,  were glorified by the Nazis as a "selfless sacrifice of youth" instead of senseless death.  Gazing at the monument that explains this glorification, I found myself wiping away tears for the young who die for their country.

 

 Nowadays the venues seem to be spread out, especially where Winter Games are involved,  because you usually don't find world class ski areas with space for the rest of the events, and constructing new buildings that wouldn't have a lot of use afterward is not financially feasible.  Such is the case with the Winter Olympics in Vancouver last year.  It was here that I attended my first Olympic Games and I am hooked!  

The city fathers and mothers did a superlative job in ferrying people between the city and the gorgeous Whistler ski area.  Everything worked beautifully.  The city events were housed mostly in already existing facilities...Vancouver is a good Canadian city that loves it's winter sports!   The flame was placed along the downtown waterfront area and walking around during the beautiful city's evening time was such fun, hearing so many languages being spoken.  There is no complex or spectacular stadium to photograph but the exquisite outdoors and sunny weather are more lovely than anything manmade.

Do you "collect" sites, making it a point to visit something in  a specific category, while you travel?   I, and other readers, would love to hear from you about this...new ideas about travel are always welcome.   Please go to the comments section below and post what your favorite things are to see while traveling.  Or, just post any comments you would like to make about this or any of my posts.   If you wish to contact me regarding travel needs, I am at 888-857-7379.   I have great contacts for travel to all sorts of  legendary sporting events from the Masters to World Cups to my own favorite, the Rose Bowl, and more.

Capri, Just Fluff or the Right Stuff?

Oooooh, Capri.  A romantic name, a romantic island, and a place where people flock to visit.   Today it’s the rich and famous (followed by the seekers of the rich and famous) and two thousand plus years ago it was  Caesar Augustus, who swapped the nearby isle of Ischia to Naples for Capri.  He was smitten, as we are today.  Pronounce it Cahp- ria, as told to me by a local.  (She said many words are pronounced with a lingering “a” at the end.  I thought that was just a bad fake accent.)

It’s even become part of our lexicon.  Now women wear Capri pants in warm  weather and the ensalada caprese is a standard in most  Italian restaurants.  

It’s a tiny chunk of rocks, where people love to shop, dine, and take in the views, as well as the boat trip to the Blue Grotto, weather and currents permitting.   Not all of us, though, are content to only shop, dine, and take in spectacular views.    Could someone who  doesn't have the euros to shop till they drop, and really doesn't care about spotting celebs,  find fascination here?   

I had two days in Sorrento, and since my magnetic north always points to ancient ruins, I knew I would spend a day at Pompeii.  I didn't feel Sorrento would captivate me for a full day, lovely town though it is, so for the next day it was a tossup between checking out the Amalfi coastline, just behind Sorrento, or hopping the ferry to Capri, just in front.  Capri won,  partly because the Amalfi coast seems to cry out for more than one day.

So onto the ferry, thinking about a blank slate of a day with no specific objective in mind.  Arriving at the port what did we find first?  Refreshments!

Booths and stands of all sorts of treats for a hot summery day, but whether or not you love coconut like I do, you have to admit this is about as charming a presentation as you will ever see!

Of course the port area is not the best of Capri,  so it was time to head up to the town of Capri, and then the little town of Anacapri.

Your first upward journey is typically taken on the funicular:

Vesuvius is in the distance.    A fun little ride, but it's the only easy was to get up to Capri.  Poke around Capri a bit if you please, then catch the bus that switchbacks up to Anacapri, where the views are even better and the shops more exclusive.

After a light lunch, we thought  about what we could  do that might be a bit out of the ordinary?  We chose to walk down a mountain.

This is a place where you go up-up-up.   Anacapri is as high as a lot of people go.   Some  then will take the chairlift (a little old and creaky, with not a lot of safety features, but if you are a wee bit nervous about heights just sit very still and you’ll be fine, I kept telling myself) to the top of Mt. Solaro, the highest point of the island. 

My Much- Braver-Than-Me friend Susan (the black speck in the middle of photo,  left) hopped on the chair in front of me and gave me an encouraging wave as we sailed very slowly, and very low, over homes and backyards.   I felt a little like a voyeur but you can't help but want to peek at and admire their ingenious terraced gardens, below.

 Your eyes scan  Ischia to the north, then see Naples in the distance,  Mt. Vesuvius directly east, and swing south toward the peninsula that hides Sorrento from your view, and down toward the Amalfi coast.  Turn around and you can see much of the west side of the island (only sparsely populated)  as well as the Mediterranean stretching to the horizon.

The cost of the chairlift is E9 round trip, and E7 one way.   Yes, you can walk one way,  and I recommend gliding up the mountain and stumbling down it.   Just kidding.   But, it’s not paved, graded, or even smooth so it is not for small children or anyone who is not capable or desirous of walking steep-ish and uneven terrain at some points.  The top of the path is right next to where the chairlift begins, so don’t make the mistake of taking one of the other paths that wind downhill behind the snack bar area.   

Allow plenty of time, because you will need to watch the pathway to avoid tripping on a root or a rock, yet you still want to savor the views.   So take a few steps, and stop to check the view.  A few more steps, and another view stop.    An old rock wall here, the town below, a meadow there,  a look at Vesuvius next and…what’s this?  Are we in Israel?  The plaque imbedded in a stone frame before us sure looks like a depiction of a Station of the Cross!

Yes, it is.    We’ve come across the 10^th Station and decide to detour on the pathway to the right (a much smoother and flatter pathway I might add) as we know there is a 13^th century monastery  down the way.  You most likely will not find the monastery open but it’s a nice little side stroll.  Follow the Stations to the final one at the base of the monastery and then sit for awhile or move over to a stone pergola-like building for more excellent viewing.

On a beautiful sunny mid-May afternoon we encountered few people (but were accompanied by a couple of friendly dogs) and the occasional tiny lizard/gekko/ (right) as we returned to the main path and proceeded downhill, seeing the Stations of the Cross in reverse order.  If you are religious or  orderly, you might want to walk up the mountain to see them in order and ride down instead, but be sure to purchase your ticket in Anacapri before you begin your hike.  By the way, these are not old but were just a quaint little surprise on the journey downhill.

Capri has other delightful walks too, of varying length and difficulties,  so if you don’t mind missing royals and movie stars and uber-chic shops  it is a wonderful way to get moving, to breathe in that fresh air,  and to justify your next delicious dish of gelato.

My commercial:  Those of you who are my customers and receive a complimentary subscription to our award-winning travel magazine, Virtuoso Life, please be sure to read the current issue.   I happily discovered an article on a walking tour of the Amalfi region and it did include walks on Capri plus others in the area.  This is a Butterfield and Robinson trip,  the company that is renowned for their excellent walks in places that just beg to be explored inch by inch.  Call me at 888-857-7379 if you'd like to hear more!