Quite Possibly, the Best Travel Book Ever.

It isn’t even really a travel book.  It speaks to you of places mystical and remote,  down-to-earth and close by,  generally unheard of and immensely famous.

Monestary of the Hieronymites, Lisbon

It won’t give you directions, instructions, hours of admissions, nearby accommodations or the best local restaurants.   It will only give you dreams for future travel, and moments of delight when you discover you have already been to many of these places.  And the photographs……divine.

A pile of rocks?  No, one of the three pyramids at Giza.  From afar, they look perfect and smooth.

To top it off, it isn’t for everyone.  Some of you may travel for a specific purpose, such as scuba diving,  museum-hopping, or even shopping.   This is for those of you who see or hear about a place that makes you want to jump on the next plane and immerse yourself in the gloriousness of….whatever.

Three words describe Monticello:  Fascinating.   Gorgeous.  Fascinating.  A true national treasure.

It is, my friends, simply titled “World Heritage Sites” and is published  by UNESCO Publishing.  The book is organized by date of acceptance by this United Nations Organization and each site was chosen for one or more criteria:  the Galapagos Islands, the first entry, is honored for Natural Phenomenon or Beauty; Major Stages of Earth’s History;  Significant Ecological or Biological Processes and Significant Natural Habitat for Biodiversity.  That first year, the other sites were both urban and remote and came from the USA, Senegal, Poland, Ethiopia, Ecuador, Germany, and Canada.  Now, there are UNESCO sites in over 150 nations.  

Restorations in the Jewish Ghetto,  Historic Centre of Rome

Sometimes, a specific place is designated, and sometimes a region or several examples of a specific thing.  For example, in England,  both Stonehenge and Avebury, which are miles apart, are listed together.  Avebury is similar to Stonehenge but more accessible to visitors-there is even a small village on-site.  Other examples are “Venice and its Lagoon,” and “Old Village of Holloko and its Surroundings”  (Hungary).

A detail in an alley of the Old Town section of Tallin, Estonia

This is really a book for dreamers.  With 936 listed sites and more coming every year,  it would really be nearly impossible to visit all without unlimited time and budget,  but  each place would not necessarily appeal to everyone.   The book has over 800 pages but I decided to slog through it and note every one I had been to, and happily found about 50.  One is in my own backyard, and was a somewhat early entry,  and looking at my list I realized that each of these places had been a highlight of my days of wandering.  I was unaware, when I visited most of them, that they were so designated.

At first sight, this looks like....nothing much.  However I took this photo from the western wall of Masada, at the point where the Romans breached the walls of the city after months of siege and building a ramp over a spur of rock to gain entrance.  Imaging watching from above as, day by day, the Romans came closer and closer to the Jewish refugees.

 If you seek an understanding of the world, both cultural and physical,  this is a must-have book to keep on your bedside table.   Their website is pretty good too!

And now for my commercial:   I am hosting a group on a cruise of wonderful ports both large and small between  Rio and Buenos Aires in January.  If you would like to join me, our gift will be a  tour  of Montevideo followed by a visit to a  special winery  outside of the city,  with a relaxing lunch with new friends included.  888-857-7379 or anne@specialtycruise.com

 

Now This is True Serendipity!

Once in awhile, when you travel,  everything comes together and you are able to do something that rarely ever happens, to anyone.  My guest blogger describes below  a great experience because of our friend serendipity that occured in January.

Lie down on your stomach, and breathe! 

I have just given you the instructions on how to snorkel, something which I began doing years ago, and have found each time to be a new adventure.  If you feel timid, you can wear a life jacket or float belt to assure you that you won’t sink.  You can just lie still and use almost no energy, so you won’t get tired.  Or you can move around a wide area to see all sorts of underwater terrain.   Mostly, I have seen gorgeous vividly colored small fish.  In the Sea of Cortez,  I opted to keep a distance from the curious sea lions unlike some of my fellow snorkelers, because I am a wimp.  I find it a very pleasant way to see something new, to relax, and get as much or as little exercise as I choose.  My daughter first snorkeled at age 5.  That’s how easy it is.

But occasionally there may be an opportunity to see something extraordinary.  My guest blogger,  Lindsey Johnson,  had an incredible snorkeling trip off of Maui.  ( I have snorkeled from Maui and saw….beautiful fish.  She saw something completely different.)

Take it away, Lindsey.

I never tire of peacefully floating through tropical waters while colorful fish gracefully swim below for my viewing pleasure.   In fact, you could say I am a snorkeling fanatic.  I have even attempted to snorkel in the  lake near my home in Seattle, (something I would not recommend unless you are a connoisseur of old  tires.)  Although I make sure to partake in snorkeling whenever I am on a vacation that allows, my adventures have all been about seeing beautiful fish and sometimes, if I am lucky, one turtle. 

So when, on a recent trip to Maui, the stars (and mostly the weather,) aligned and allowed our snorkel cruise boat to snorkel in an area that is rarely if ever a safe stop, I knew I had hit the snorkel jackpot:  the Liberty Shipwreck, an oil tanker from World War II that now rests about 1,500 feet off a beautiful deserted beach on Lanai, a short boat ride from Maui.  

 

The full day snorkel adventure promised lots of beautiful fish, some fun and laughter, and hopefully turtles, dolphins and whales.  The trip took us around the island of Lanai, a typical yet always fun touristy snorkel trip.  Our guide also promised us a view of Shipwreck beach, a famous ‘wrecked’ ship, and a drive by Dragon cove.  Again, all very typical and done daily on these tours.  With the sun shining, and more importantly the wind quiet, the trip over to Lanai was filled with a few great whale sightings.  

As we approached the giant ship our Captain got on the speakers and began to announce in a very excited voice that we might have just hit the jackpot on the weather and if the wind was still nonexistent as we got closer, we would be able to do something only 6 tours ever in the 10 years he had been doing these daily trips has been able to do:  snorkel around the ship.  Typically the winds from the North East that get funneled through the channel between Lanai and Maui are very strong and it is dangerous for both boats and especially snorkelers to get too close to the giant Liberty ship. 

We, however, lucked out.  Our Captain guided us within 15 feet of the giant ship while he told us the story of the famed Liberty Ships.  Giant and very inexpensive to build, these cargo ships became a symbol of the huge American war industrial output.  However when three of the hulking, concrete enforced ships inexplicably broke in half, flags were raised.  It turns out the steel that was  used could not handle the extreme cold weather of the water in the North Atlantic and would crack and fracture.  Many were retired or sold to other countries, but one ended up in Hawaii.  I was relieved to find out this was not shipwreck that may be home to old sailors bones, but was actually placed in that location as the most economical way to dispose of the giant, hulking concrete ship.

We finally jumped into the water on the side of the ship that was shadowed from the sun.  The water was warm, but without sun there was little life.  We managed to see a few fish and while my boyfriend hung back, I swam close to the ship and was treated to all sorts of creepy crawlies moving along the side.  Also being so close to the ship you could peer into several holes and appreciate the sheer size of this hulking beast, which the US managed to build in less than 50 days at the peak of production.  Truly a symbol of the US’s industrial prowess and mastery- arguably the biggest reason our side won the war.  It was a memory I knew I would not forget.

As we slowly made the turn around the back of the ship into sunshine it was like swimming into the underwater Garden of Eden.  The sunny side teemed with life, as we saw butterfly fish, tangs, pennant fish, trumpet fish, and the ever classic Moorish Idol.  I had never seen so many fish while snorkeling.  Rocks and coral of all sizes littered the ground, so close in many places I could reach down with my hand and touch the plant life that covered the outside.  As we lazily floated through the underwater rainbow we came upon my absolute favorite animal- turtles!  One sleepily floated so close once I finally noticed him I could have reached out and patted him on the head.  There were several, none at all distracted or disturbed by the sight of several humans swimming nearby so we were lucky enough to enjoy them for almost the entire time we were in the sunshine.

As I climbed aboard the snorkeling boat for some lunch and we zoomed off to our next, more typical snorkeling destination, I looked back at the wreck and knew how lucky I was to get so close to a piece of history.  If I close my eyes I can still see the schools of colorful fish stream by, the lazy turtles floating past, and the giant hull covered in years of rust and now home to all sorts of underwater creatures.  

Thank you Lindsey.   I hope that someday I am lucky enough to have a great experience like that.

Now for the commercial:   Are you a Notre Dame supporter?   Or did you serve in the Navy?  I have a nifty package to Ireland for the football game between these two teams, with  some touring of the Emerald Isle as well, this fall.   It would be a fun trip without the game,  but maybe you fans should go so that you can explain the game to all of those Irishmen and women you will run into!   I adore Ireland and especially it's people.  Now if the University of Washington were to play there I'd be the first in line for tickets.

To Market, to Market, to Buy a Fat....

Oh,  never mind.  I don’t buy fat pigs at the market.  And I don’t go home again home again jiggity jig.   But I do love going to markets, and I don’t mean supermarkets, which I do  appreciate when I am in a hurry.  Or at midnight. 

Being a Seattle girl I have access to one of the best and most famous public markets anywhere, the Pike Place Market.  (No, it isn’t Pike’s Market.)  Famous for the “flying fish” and a dazzling display of produce, much of which comes from surrounding farms, you can also find some fabulous restaurants, a great boutique hotel, and some of the most funky shops you will ever see.  Since it is over 100 years old, some wonderful businesses have located around it.

So I gravitate to markets  when I travel to get a fix of the bright colors and colorful people that populate them.   I find they reflect the city and it’s inhabitants.  The vendors are usually full of good information and cheer.  Plus, sometimes there are free samples.

Here are some of the most interesting, in no particular order:

In St. Petersburg I was on a tour that was billed something like this:  A Day in the Life of a St. Petersburg Resident.    We took the subway,  we went to a little shopping mall, that sort of thing, and of course we went to a market.  This was indoors in a run-down building,  but who needs fancy to sell foods?   (Well, someone does, and I will show you later.)  Some of the vendors did NOT want their photos taken but others were OK with it.  The fruits all look good, although we northwestern berry snobs would say the strawberries were pumped with too much water and wouldn't have the best flavor,  but some of the things were definitely tempting!  It was a busy place and really had a good variety.  It must seem like heaven to those who remember the old regime, when shortages in just about everything abounded.  (Oh, and  the end of the tour?  We went to a place to sample different flavors of vodka...and they weren't even trying to sell it!   I don't drink much hard liquor but they had a dill vodka that seemed just right.)

Next, here are a couple of shots of a little one-vendor market stall near the subway station for Gamla Stan in Stockholm.   I love the neat, precise and orderly way everything is displayed. 

Next up,  a little teensy weensy market at the entrance to an apartment in Shantou, China.  How easy to just grab a couple of veggies, toss your money in the basket, and run upstairs to prepare your salad.

This next market is dear to me as I came across it on my first visit to Italy.  This visit lasted about an hour or   two,  as we were in Monaco on a very rainy and miserable day, so we hopped on the train, headed through the tunnel just to the east, and got off at the first station, Ventimiglia. I saw some of the most delectable produce I've ever seen.  Plus a fantastic array of flowers.

 

And our favorite vendors, below.  Notice the beautiful untrimmed artichokes to their left.  (I will note here that the above photo has been enlarged, framed and has a place of honor in my office to commemorate my first visit to Italy.  Even if it was only for an hour or so.  I've made up for it since then.)

 

I was intrigued with the Halifax Seaport Public Market because it is touted as an environmentally friendly space (indoor).  Wide windows let you see through from the street side to the ocean side and the accompanying boat traffic, and of course let in light.  The heating and lighting systems are solar powered.     Besides produce there are other farmer's products and you could nosh all day amongst the booths.  I picked up some local pepper jelly for gifts.   (Small price, small size for the suitcases, in sealed plastic bags of course.)   My favorite thing is the green or bio-wall, used for air filtering.  You'll see it below.

You know I could post beautiful market photos all day.  So I will do one more and then end.  This one is kind of cheating as it isn't technically a farmer's market.  But it is an old and honored food emporium, with more glamor than Madonna and Lady Gaga combined.  (Or maybe Audrey Hepburn and Liz Taylor for us mature folks.)  I'll start with the chandelier, yes, and what a chandelier, and whiz you around for some of the more interesting foodstuffs.

Veggies and candy and terrines oh my!  This must be Harrod's,  home of everything from the 30 British Pound Sterling Ostrich Egg  to the good old boxes of Kellogg's Corn Flakes. By the way, those are marshmallows to the left.  Multi=colored.

 

Now I am finished, but I do need your help.  I took the next photo of a little shop in Sanary-Sur-Mer in the South of France, wanting to know what the French think of as the difference between a gourmet and a gourmand.   Unfortunately,  I forgot to learn French.  So if you can translate the text and then drop down below my commercial and click on "add a comment" and translate it, I will always be grateful for the next few days at least.  I am sure that many of you have favorite markets and would love to have you comment on those below too!  Thank you Lindsey Johnson for the Halifax photos.

Wow.  I have seen so many new and interesting trips this year.  If you are a birder or generally love the wild places and nature,  we have a small ship of 100 passengers maximum visiting the Russian Far East along the Kuril Islands, the Northern Ring of Fire.  Or go by luxury rail from Moscow to Vladivostok this winter and see Russia during this beautiful season.  If you are interested in sea life,  I can offer a chance to see the beautiful tusked narwhal--the unicorn of the ocean-- on a Narwhal and Polar Bear Safari.  Nowadays travel really can fulfill your dreams.  The dreams will become memories and will stay with you forever.  (If you are looking for a bargain,  I do have a special offer with Crystal Cruises through the end of this week, with additional discounts over what you may see published on their website, plus special amenities.)  anne@specialtycruise.com; 888-857-7379.  Happy travel dreaming!

                                                                  

                                                                                                          

Journey to the Center of the Earth

(spoken in a very deep, resonating voice)

I think you all know I am using literary license here, as we would all sizzle up and fly away as ashes in a cloud of smoke if we really went to the center of the earth.   But  if you hie yourself over to the Christian Science Center the next time you are in Boston you can figuratively make that trip in their exquisite Mapparium.

The Christian Science Center is  like the Vatican for the Catholics as the world headquarters for the Church of Christ, Scientist.  The Center itself makes a nice visit.  The grounds include the beautiful Mother Church, adjoining the original church  (the first church was rather small and the burgeoning religion outgrew it within a dozen years), the general offices, the Christian Science Publishing Society headquarters where the Christian Science Monitor has its editorial offices, the Mary Baker Eddy Library, and other ancillary buildings.  The Christian Science Plaza is centered by a beautiful reflection pool that practically begs you to sit for a few moments to unwind and, well, reflect.

Behind the reflecting pool is the original church, and behind that the Mother Church.

Disclaimer:   I am not a Christian Scientist.  But I grew up amongst them, and find them to be kind, thoughtful, pleasant, happy, loving, caring and giving people in general.   This place mirrors these qualities.

I do understand that not everyone finds themselves to be atwitter at the prospect of entering into a giant globe.  A  three story globe.    If maps and globes don’t interest you, just skip to the end of the blog, where you will see my tremendous offer.  But if you’ve already walked the wonderful Freedom Trail, ridden the swan boats, prowled the waterfront, seen Old Ironsides and are looking for something different to see in Boston, this might be your piece of Boston Crème Pie.

The  Mapparium  is located in the Mary Baker Eddy Library.   Mrs. Eddy was the discoverer and founder of Christian Science and was a well known and honored woman in her time (the late 1800s.)   The library itself is almost more of a place to find and discover and share ideas, although there are certainly books and research tools here. The Hall of Ideas, for example, celebrates ideas throughout the years that have stimulated us and created change.  The neoclassical hall itself is a thing of beauty.   One of the few copies still existing of the 1611 King James Bible has been on display at the library  this year, and thought provoking and interesting exhibits rotate through.

One of the fascinating light fixtures within the library.

You enter the Mapparium on a bridge that runs through the middle, I could say from west to east,  as if you are standing on the equator.  The first thing you note is the vivid colors of this globe,  which opened in 1935.  The next thing are the numerous country names that you may remember but your children will not be familiar with.   This globe was created with the capability of being changed and updated, but after a few movements to do so over the years, it was decided in the 1960s to just keep it as a work of art, a snapshot of the world as it was nearly 80 years ago.  You might ponder how much more different it will seem after another 80 years!  Both recorded and live narratives are part of the program.  (We are not allowed to photograph the Mapparium so please do follow the above link!)

Besides the features of the globe, the acoustics are fun.  You can speak, and the shape and size of the sphere allow you to hear your voice just as it sounds to others.  It brings a new meaning to “talking to yourself!.”   And, someone on the other side of the world can whisper to you and it sounds like they are standing next to you. 

The Christian Science Center is in Back Bay, at 200 Massachusetts Avenue, close to Fenway Park, and steps from three convenient subway stops.    There is no admission fee for the libarary, but a small fee to enter the globe.   Worth it, in my opinion.   

Another view of the Mother Church, early 20th century, with the original late 19th century church on the right.

(Thank you to Lindsey Johnson for the loan of her camera after I left mine at the Minneapolis Airport!!!)


Time for the commercial!   I really just want to wish you all a happy rest-of-the-holiday season.  I am seeing some interesting and unusual offers for 2012, such as journeys tied to the 100th anniversary of the sinking of the Titanic, and the first expedition to the South Pole.   Travel possibilities are becoming more and more fascinating as time goes on and infrastructure allows,  and as a Virtuoso member I am on the front porch with most of these travel companies allowing us to do these things.   If you have been visiting the same place for years and years and want to try something new and different, give me a call!    888-857-7379, general business hours, Pacific Coast time.

My Secret Place: A Love Story

I have finally resigned myself to the fact that I will NOT be able to visit every single place in the world in my lifetime.    I am not a billionaire (or even a millionaire.)  I don’t have my dream job working for a tour company or cruise line scouting out new destinations.   (I’m open to offers for that one!)   Period, zip, end of story.

That is why,  although it pains me to say so, there are  many places I’d like to revisit that I put off in order to see  new things.    I’m the hamster running on the wheel, always wanting to go and mostly getting nowhere except to my desk, living vicariously through my clients. 


But  I have a secret place that I have returned to, one where few travelers visit and even fewer  stop for a night or five or six.  I know I’ll go back again, maybe even soon.   This place TRULY makes you relax, slow down, and live at a snail’s pace.   When I win the lottery or my ship comes in, whichever happens first, I would love to purchase a little casita so I could escape  in the winter, away from Seattle’s rainy season.  

Mineral de Pozos,  truly "away from it all."

How I got there first was serendipitous.   Nest had emptied, dear dog had died, between relationships, burned out on my job.  One day looking at a tour brochure, a great part of my job,  I saw a day trip from a central Mexican city, was intrigued, googled it, and had a yearning to see this tranquil, somewhat rustic town that looked like it was out of a movie set.  Or more accurately, out of the past.  Took vacation time, bought airline tickets, rented a car, booked a room at Casa Mexicana, and off I went, all within a few days.

Circa 1572 Jesuit smelters, Sta. Brigita, near Pozos

Mineral de Pozos  (just Pozos to the locals) was once a glorious and sophisticated city and now is barely a hamlet.  Less than 100 years after Columbus sailed,  Jesuits had come to the area to convert the  natives, noticed their beautiful silver jewelry, and long story short built triplet smelters which still stand.  The mining community thrived off and on and by the late 1800s the population was near 70,000.  Hitting the water table in the early 20^th century, the town shrank  and at one point dwindled to about 250.

Above town are nearly century old ruins of mines and grand haciendas.  You can hike, bike, or ride horseback up here  (or travel by car of course.)  Someone will guide you for a tip!

In the second half of the 1900s several artists moved here and it has since become kind of a mini-artists’ colony;  the Mexican government also made it a national historic site which protected it from complete modernization and development.    The reconstruction of the  crumbling ruins has been thoughtful and respectful of colonial Mexican design.  Some of the town has not been restored, giving it the antique feel.

Compare Pozos to the many nearby Colonial towns and you’ll realize it’s the perfect jumping off place for touring.  About 45 minutes south is Queretero,  a city of a million and most importantly:  Costco.   (Do you see my tongue in my cheek?  But if you need something and you just can’t find it elsewhere, you’ll know where to go.)  The same timing to the west would be San Miguel de Allende,   rife with American retirees and streets choked with traffic, but still remaining quaint and fun to visit.   I went to a bridge club there to get my weekly fix.    Dolores Hidalgo, north, is the cradle of the Mexican Revolution and another fun day trip.    And only five miles away is San Luis de la Paz,  a city of about 30,000—you may feel you are in the middle of nowhere, but you aren't.   

Traffic jam in the mountains.

However my favorite day trips have been the ones where I saw intriguing names on the map, in the mountains, which I decided to seek out. Into the car, and off you go…point your car in the right direction,  look for signs and if you don’t see any, keep driving. If you get lost, you will shortly get found. I wanted to see Dr Mora, Victoria, Tierra Blanca and more as they are today’s typical Small Town Mexico. (Well, I really wanted to see Victoria because that is one of my sis’ names.)

Gorgeous pastoral hills and valleys

Nothing that I saw disappointed me:   villages and small towns, all surrounding their churches and pleasant plazas,  people busy working, smiling and waving as I went by.    Miles and miles between them, sharing the road with cattle and donkeys, sometimes seeing -0- signs of civilization except for maybe a barbed wire fence or a telephone wire overhead.   Road construction going on, children going to school, people in the little shops and stores, just like Small Town America up north. 

Security note:  if you are afraid of Mexico, and I know some people are, this is more like the American Midwest.   Industry and agriculture keep the people busy and prospering.  They are extremely family oriented and very happy.   This is far, far away from any drug violence.  (Can you say that about your nearest major city in the US?)

 























 My favorite of the small towns?   Tierra Blanca, a lovely, tidy little place.  The church is uphill and across the street from the village, looking down a stairway that leads through the bustling streets to the plaza.  See the wall with writing on it in the photo above left?   Graffiti?  Advertisements, or propaganda?   Nope,  see below!

Tierra Blanca, the happiest moments in the family are when playing with the children.

A short walk outside of town, high desert meets thriving agriculture

I didn't leave Pozos every day.  I was there to recharge.  I took long walks daily. You can visit the abandoned mines and crumbling haciendas of  a century ago, poke around the town, visit the little shops, try different restaurants, meet local artists but mostly…."chillax" as the kids say.

You can also check out the local stud muffins.

I was lucky enough, on my first visit, to arrive during the annual Fiesta de la Toltequidad.  How excited was I to see a contingent of Huichol Indians there selling their exquisite beadwork:  masks, small animals and bowls of various sizes.   At prices about 75% lower than you would pay in the expensive shops and galleries of the seaside resort towns.    If you are an art collector, a steal, and you are again meeting some of the artists.  This culture is one of the few remaining in Mexico that has not completely embraced modernization and sadly,  is expected to slowly yet inevitably bend to the forces of the 21st Century some day. Hopefully not soon.  A fascinating culture, I encourage you to follow the link.

My photo can show you the vivid colors but do not do the exquisite beadwork justice.  Meeting the artisans was a thrill for me as I had purchased their work in the past.

This festival lasts for several days,  happens in July, and has, besides booths selling beautiful indigenous items,  music, dancing and various shows, all springing from the past.


Now I must tell you about the hotels.  I have chosen Casa Mexicana for my visits.  I heart it. Rebuilt from ruins of a hacienda, each of the five suites is completely different from the other.  I stay in El Arbol, so named because a tree grows through it.  One even has a friendly ghost.  The owner, Teresa Martinez,  was an art dealer in Manhattan for years so has sophisticated taste, and the rooms are adorned with Picasso etchings.  Her hostelry also includes a restaurant, an art gallery, and a gift shop with a collection of beautifully eclectic items from all over the world. 

The doorway to El Arbol, with an angel just to the right of the steps.

There is  another newly rebuilt hotel, Posada de las Minas, owned by Texans Dave and Julie Winslow.  They did a stunning job--Julie did the designing and planning, and have created a modern getaway with colonial touches.  A great courtyard restaurant and the "happ'nin"
bar are exquisite, too.    Both places will welcome you warmly and give you plenty of attention, especially with the "what to do and where to go" questions, and will introduce you to the art scene around town. 

So there you have it:  a perfect place to run away to.  (Oops, did I just end a sentence with a preposition?  Let me try again.)  So there you have it.  If you need to run away, this might be your perfect landing spot.

Now for my commercial!  I would be happy to help you plan a sojourn that includes Pozos.  On the other hand,  I receive emails daily from hotels, cruise lines, and other wonderful vendors all over the world with news and information on the bargains they are offering.   Today, for example, I have in my inbox an invitation to save $500 on a rare tour to witness a butterfly migration,  some new walking itineraries from Butterfield & Robinson, who really do it better than anyone, and a reminder of a sale through the 15th on Windstar's beautiful sailing vessels.   Call me at 888-857-7379 or email, anne@specialtycruise.com